A heli skiing trip is on the “bucket list” of every avid skier or snowboarder. Imagine flying over endless snow-covered peaks only to be dropped off at the top of a face with untouched snow…. we thought it was time to experience that for real and make work of our “bucket list.”
In this article, we take you on our heli skiing adventure in one of Europe’s best-kept secret freeride locations.
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Preparing to go heli skiing
It is a cold November evening when we first sit down with the crew to discuss plans for our snow adventure next winter. That it should be a heli-skiing trip is quickly determined. But where are we heading?
Heli skiing can be done all over the world. From Whistler BC (Canada) to some resorts in the Alps.
But this adventure has to be one where not only the activity but also the destination is a big part of the experience. We finally find that destination in Eastern Europe…. on to Romania!
Avalanche safety
But before that happens, there are many preparations to be made for our heli skiing trip. We find a local company called “Heliski Romania” that organizes heli ski trips in the Tarcu Mountains, in the Western part of the Transylvanian Alps. The Tarcu Mountains are a southwestern part of the Carpathians and a well-kept (heli ski) freeride secret.
Besides all the necessary equipment, before departure it is also necessary to refresh avalanche knowledge. Not only theory but also practice. Accompanied by experienced guides from the mountain sports federation, we head to a local beach. The ideal environment to dig in some avalanche beacons and practice rescue procedures. Because the best freerider is one who can drink a beer with his buddies safe and sound in the evening.
Meanwhile, it’s February… our knowledge is refreshed, suitcases are ready, skis/boards waxed and time to leave for the unknown: the virgin snowfields of Romania!
Not the destination but the journey
Our group comes from all over the country and we gather at the airport. Much of our travel party knows each other but there are also some new faces among them. One by one we meet in the departure lounge. It is not difficult to pick out who is traveling with us. Heavily loaded with ski/board bags, thick coats, hats,…. we stand out on a weekday morning at the airport.
“Middle of nowhere”
We board our first flight. It takes us first to Munich (Germany). From there we take the connection towards Timisoara. This airport is closest to our final destination in the Tarcu Mountains.
The atmosphere is already there. 12 guys on a flight to the adventure of the year… Of course, that calls for a beer! 😉
From the plane window, meanwhile, we see the vast snowy peaks of the Austrian Alps. For once, this is not our destination but we fly on to other uncharted places.
A few hours later, we set foot on Romanian soil. There is not much of the city of Timisoara at the airport. It seems as if we have landed in the middle of nowhere. A few weeks ago, Russia invaded Ukraine. Here we are not that far from the war zone. We are reminded of that when we see two combat helicopters take off.
Outside the airport, we wait for our shuttle that would take us to our final destination after a 2-hour drive. Our shuttle is present BUT…. it obviously hadn’t counted on 12 heavily packed guys with ski and board gear. Even without luggage, it would be a challenge to all fit into that van.
Our driver said goodbye to us for now and left to go get a bigger vehicle. What was going to take half an hour ends up taking almost 3 hours. It immediately becomes clear that not everything here goes as planned and as we are used to. And that not only the destination is the adventure but also the journey itself. We immediately started the adventure without realizing it.
Muntele Mic: the base for our heli skiing trip
After a long drive on winding mountain roads, we finally arrive at our final destination: Muntele Mic. In the heart of this small ski area there are at most a few buildings and houses. Many unfinished and centrally the tallest building which must once have been a hotel. The windows are missing and curtains flutter slightly on the outside of the building. We are immediately catapulted back to Soviet times.
It is stone cold and snowing slightly upon arrival. After moving in with our authentic and cozy host and a hearty Romanian meal, we meet our guides.
Warming up quietly tomorrow is apparently out of the question. We are told, “Tomorrow heli skiing!”
When you undertake a heli skiing trip you actually pay for a balance of altimeters. At the beginning of your trip you start with a certain balance and every time the heli drops you off on a face, and picks you back up at the bottom, these altimeters go off your balance.
We expected to have about 2 full heli ski days out of the 5 days on site. First some easy warm up and then later in the week go heli skiing. The weather and our Romanian guides decided otherwise. Straight into the action!
Mount Everest heli
Early in the morning the alarm goes off. There are still some clouds but a clearing here and there. We gather with our guides at the foot of the ski area. The heli is somewhere in the ski area and for this we have to take a ski lift up.
There is a healthy tension in the air. We all fly down the back of the mountain on our way to our first heli ski experience.
There it is. At the bottom of a slope, still asleep but ready to wake up and give us our first heli ski experience. Anyone who thinks you will end up in a half-flying monstrosity in Romania is wrong. In front of us an Airbus AS350 B3 is shining.
This may not immediately ring a bell with the general public, but this is the only helicopter in the world that can land on the summit of Mount Everest. It is also used in mountain rescue operations on Everest. Price tag: several million euros. Those Romanians… they know how to roll!
The helicopter flies us away from the ski resort and into the mountains. What follows is a day full of adrenaline and fun. Getting in, flying and getting out of the heli is probably as much of a thrill as the freeride descents themselves. It’s like an amusement park for adults (and winter sports enthusiasts).
In the afternoon, the cloud cover thickens and visibility decreases as well. After a few successful heli drops, we call it a day and save some altimeters for the next few days.
Free riding Muntele Mic
The weather is not cooperative over the next few days. Low dense clouds filled with snow fill the area. The helicopter cannot fly out with these weather conditions.
In the meantime, however, it has snowed a bit, so we are treated to a new layer of powder. So we take the opportunity to explore the ski area.
The area is not large and has only 5 ski lifts. Still, we find some nice freeride runs. We also discover the local après ski hut. Back at our accommodation, we stand outside enjoying the day. It has started snowing again and the intensity is increasing.
Our host comes outside with a tray of shot glasses and carafe filled with a brown translucent homemade brew: Palinka! Slightly concerned about our eyesight, we venture into the warm brew anyway. Strong and delicious… And we didn’t become blind. 😉
Meanwhile, it is dark in Muntele Mic but we see that 1 ski lift is still open and one slope is lit. The heavy snowfall of the last few hours has created a pack of fresh powder snow. We don’t want to miss this opportunity! Quickly back in ski clothes and up with the ski lift.
We choose not the ski slope but the meadow next to the slope. It is not lit, of course, but don’t let that stop us. Everyone put on a headlamp and go. After all, fresh powder is waiting for us!
Bluebird
The next morning, the curtains open and yep! blue sky and not a cloud in sight. Combine that with the new pack of snow that fell last night and you can imagine the level of “excitement”. It’s heli ski time!
We fly through the freshly snow-covered mountain landscape and start our first drop. The conditions are great!
We ski some more challenging lines than the first day and the altimeters are also higher per descent. We keep a tight pace and there is not much time to rest between runs because the heli is already there to pick us up.
Like kids in a playground we ski line after line and the wide smiles to behind everyone’s ears speaks for itself. The combination of a fresh pack of powder snow, blue sky and the heli make this one of the best freeride moments ever! We totally get what we came for.
Time to go home
After a wonderful finale, the next day it is unfortunately already time to say goodbye to the heli, the remote little ski resort and especially our Romanian guides who became friends in a short time. One thing is for sure: Romania has not only lived up to the heli ski adventure we envisioned but even surpassed it.
We would love to return here someday to discover what the rest of this mountain range has in store. Bucket list… check!
Travel tips
Want to go to Romania to freeride and heli ski by yourself? Then be sure to check out the info and supplies below:
Airfare
Those who want to go heli skiing in Romania should fly to Timisoara airport.
Accommodation
The best place to stay is at the Montis Hotel & Spa. It is a nice place to stay near the ski lifts.
Heli skiing
Heli skiing is offered on site by “Heliski Romania”.
When is the best time to go?
Obviously when there is the best chance for good snow. The mountains in the region are not super high so it is best to plan your trip in the winter months of January, February or March.
Avalanche equipment
Before you go on such an adventure, it is an absolute requirement that you have the appropriate avalanche equipment. This is always the case when you leave the slopes.
This means that you should have at least a snow shovel, a probe and an avalanche pager. Optionally, but strongly recommended, you also have an avalanche backpack (ABS or similar).
Watch our after movie here:
2 Responses
Greetings from Romania dear freeride buddies!🤙
Great article, thank you!
Looking forward to ski with you again this winter guys!
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