It’s mid-September and summer is slowly making way for autumn. For many nature lovers, it’s the favorite season because of the beautiful colors. And it’s no different in the mountains. Just before the mountain landscapes are covered with a white blanket, you can often admire the most stunning autumn scenery here.
Some places are more unique than others. But for those who want to witness a truly exceptional piece of mountain terrain, the Dolomites in South Tyrol, Italy, are the place to be. So unique that UNESCO has declared them a World Heritage Site.
Winding through the heart of the Dolomites is a hiking trail. One that spans 61 km and 2,356 meters of elevation gain to be precise: the Dolorama Trail! The name is a blend of “Dolomites” and “panorama.” It hints at many scenic viewpoints overlooking the Dolomites. And for anyone who has been to South Tyrol, you’ll already know—it’s worth it.
We’ll be on the trail for four days. We’ve divided the 61 km route into four stages. Along the way, we’ll stay in mountain huts, or refugios.
A light backpack carries only our essential items. It snowed exceptionally early in the days leading up to our trip. So warmer clothing than usual for the time of year is a must. In any case, proper clothing is essential. The weather can change suddenly in the mountains. Just recently, two couples were caught off guard by a sudden storm in the Dolomites. Unfortunately, one couple didn’t make it. For now, the weather forecast seems to be in our favor. Ready to explore this unique piece of nature.
No Decorated Cows
We begin our hiking adventure in Lüsen, not far from the South Tyrolean town of Brixen. We spent the night at the Oberhauserhütte, which sits right at the start of the Dolorama Trail. That’s where we’re picked up by Nils, our guide for the next four days. A joker, a true Italian, and a guide with plenty of experience leading treks like this.
The first stage is no small feat physically. We’ll have to cover 21 km and around 1,000 meters of elevation gain. There’s no real time to warm up, as the trail starts climbing right from the beginning—across gently sloping alpine meadows up to our first peak at 2,200 meters.
Within the first kilometer, we pass striking sculptures every few hundred meters. Each sculpture represents a day of creation as described in the biblical story. In total, we encounter seven. But there’s not much time to admire them—we’ve got a long hike ahead of us today.
The trail leads us across high alpine meadows with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. It gives off “Sissi vibes.” After about six kilometers, we reach a mountain hut with a sun-drenched South Tyrolean terrace and a view of a small alpine valley. The perfect setting for our first lunch. When you say South Tyrol, you automatically think of culinary indulgence. And right away we’re served a cheese-and-meat platter with top-quality local products. Another regional favorite is Schüttelbrot—a flat, crunchy bread with various seeds. South Tyrol is characterized by a unique mix of Alpine and Mediterranean influences. And that definitely shows in the food.
After our early lunch stop, it’s time to get down to business. From here, we have a proper climb to the first summit. The trails become narrower and steeper. The higher we go, the more we find ourselves walking in snow. The meadows are also blanketed in white here and there. The unexpected early blast of winter meant the farmers had to move their livestock down into the valleys sooner than usual. This usually happens in September or October and is accompanied by a traditional folk celebration: Almabtrieb. The cattle are decorated with flowers, ribbons, and bells and are led into the valleys by traditional musicians. Unfortunately, no Almabtrieb this year—the weather gods had other plans.
The second half of this stage is definitely the toughest. After reaching the first peak, we remain at altitude. The trail rolls up and down along the mountain flanks, and the final kilometers start to take a toll. Thankfully, the stunning scenery keeps us energized and eager to push further.
After 21 km and 1,050 meters of elevation, we finally arrive at the Maurerberghütte, or Refugio Monte Muro—our first place to sleep. The hut is far from any beaten path, perched high up on a mountain with a phenomenal 360-degree panorama. Somewhere in that panorama lies the “Sass de Putia,” or “Peitlerkofel,” the first iconic Dolomite peak on the trail. We’re treated to a magnificent sunset and moonrise. It’s clear… this is nature at its purest.
Around the Peitlerkofel
The alarm goes off early on day two. Anyone who witnessed last night’s sunset doesn’t want to miss this morning’s sunrise. Armed with a camera and headlamp, we step outside in the pre-dawn dark. As the first rays of sun appear, the light is beautiful—it makes for a perfect photo opportunity. The day is already off to a great start.
Today’s hike is 15 km with 700 meters of elevation gain. Our destination: the Schlüterhütte, at 2,300 meters. But to get there, we still have to circle all the way around the Peitlerkofel and cross a mountain pass. No time to dawdle.
After a long descent through mountain forests, we reach the base of the Peitlerkofel. From here, we still have a solid 11 km to climb. We pass through forests of Swiss stone pines. You might even have one in your home without realizing it—the pines growing here produce high-quality wood, often used to make high-end furniture. So who knows, maybe you rest your feet every evening on a piece of South Tyrol.
The Passo Goma (Göma-Joch) gets our heart rates up. But once we’re at the top, we’re rewarded again. We have a breathtaking view of the valley on the far side of the Peitlerkofel. One thing’s for sure… we’re far from done. To reach the Schlüterhütte, we still need to overcome quite a bit of elevation. The weather is also beginning to turn, and a cold wind picks up. But we get some encouragement—a family of marmots watches us from about ten meters off the trail.
In the distance, we can already see the Schlüterhütte. Of all the huts on the trail, this one is the most basic—but also the most charming and authentic. By now, it’s much colder and the wind is howling around the building. The hut is so old that only the ground floor with the restaurant is heated. The sleeping areas upstairs are pretty chilly, especially with the strong wind blowing in through the cracks. Old wooden beds with thick duvets, creaky floors, small wooden windows with views of the mountains, and a cozy, warm dining room with hearty food… this is what a mountain hut should be.
The Heart of the Dolomites
From here, the next day goes downhill. Well, not in terms of scenery, outdoor experience, or our motivation to discover the rest of the trail—but in elevation. Stage 3 is the first stage where we’ll descend more than we climb. That doesn’t mean we won’t still have to tackle 660 meters of elevation over 16 km.
We head towards the Puez-Geisler/Puez-Odle Nature Park, home of the famous Geisler/Odle peaks. After a long descent, we reach the base of the Geisler/Odle, and our Dolorama route continues along the Adolf Munkel trail. This trail winds beneath the towering faces of the Geisler/Odle along rocky singletracks. It guides you through stunning stretches of nature, with the iconic Dolomite wall always to your left. Along the way, we also meet “the Nutcracker.” A bird perched atop the pines, making a strange sound when it feels threatened. A weird little character.
This unique trail section is named after the founder of the Dresden Alpine Club (Dresden Alpenverein), established by Adolf Munkel in the 19th century. Munkel was a key figure in democratizing and making mountaineering accessible. Before him, alpinism was reserved for the elite, aristocrats, and scientists. The alpine club still exists more than a century later and maintains some of the trails weekly.
After about 10 km, we take a break at Refugio Malga Brogles for a well-deserved lunch. This refuge is run by a solidly built young South Tyrolean. Because his hut is so remote, he must guide his cattle along a considerable part of the Dolorama route twice a year.
After lunch, we press on for a short but steep climb and continue to be amazed by the stunning views of the Dolomites. At one point, we spot a large heart-shaped clearing on the mountain slope opposite us. After checking with our guide, it turns out this is an unnamed landscape feature in the Dolomites. We decide that has to change and christen it “The Heart of the Dolomites.” Maybe not the most creative name, but standing in the middle of these mountains, it felt like the right one.
After another day filled with breathtaking natural beauty, we arrive at our last overnight stop on the Dolorama Trail: the Raschötzhütte. In winter, a ski slope runs not far from the hut. In summer, you’re treated to a phenomenal view of the Dolomites.
We meet the hosts: a lovely couple—he’s Italian, she’s German. She once hiked the Dolorama trail herself and stopped at the Raschötzhütte, where she met David, who was running the hut alone at the time. Once back home, the encounter kept lingering, and a few weeks later, she returned—and never left. That this all happened just a stone’s throw from our self-declared “Heart of the Dolomites” can’t be a coincidence. For us, it confirms the rightness of our chosen name. So, singles take note—hiking the Dolorama Trail might lead to an unexpectedly long stay.
The Final Stretch
The next morning, we bid farewell to the romance and set course for Lajen, a small, charming South Tyrolean village—and the official end of our Dolorama adventure. This fourth and final stage is the shortest at just under 10 km. With only 33 meters of ascent and 1,100 meters of descent, it’s mostly downhill from here.
We pass steep rocky sections that are tricky to walk on. It reminds us of the young farmer from Malga Brogles, who leads his cattle down this path twice a year. Given the effort it takes us to hike it ourselves, it’s hard to imagine a herd making it down here. But clearly, South Tyroleans are used to more than we are.
After about three hours of descent, we arrive at the end point. Despite our physical fatigue, we could easily have continued this trail for a few more days. For four days, we were treated to the most spectacular views, iconic mountain formations, authentic cuisine, and South Tyrolean hospitality. It’s no wonder that this unique natural area is recognized and protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. And thanks to the Dolorama Trail, we got to experience it all up close.
But South Tyrol goes even further. The region puts a strong focus on sustainability to ensure that future generations can also enjoy the Dolomites. They even launched their own sustainability label to encourage destinations and accommodations to reduce their ecological footprint.
Travel info:
If you’d like to experience all this beauty for yourself, you can fly directly from Antwerp Airport (ANR) to Bolzano Airport (BZO) with SkyAlps. You can also reach Bolzano directly from Brussels or Antwerp by train with European Sleeper or via Munich or Amsterdam with Nightjet.
The complete Dolorama hiking route can be downloaded in various stages as GPX files for your GPS device: https://gpxadventures.com/nl/wandelroutes/
To get the most out of your adventure, it’s best to book a guide:
• www.bergfuehrer-suedtirol.it/de?membermap=1&filter=hikingleader
• www.wanderfuehrer.it/wanderfuehrer/
More info about the Dolorama route can be found here:
• https://www.suedtirol.info/en/en/experiences-and-events/nature/dolomites/dolorama
